The city, and especially the neighborhood of Thornton Park, has eagerly awaited the opening of Osteria Ester since it was announced in September as the next restaurant in line for this legacy corner location.
“We’d come in in the morning and see faceprints on the glass from where people were looking in,” said Sue Chin, one half of Orlando’s James Beard-nominated Good Salt Restaurant Group. The restaurant hosted friends, family and other guests last week as part of its final preparations.
Husband Jason Chin notes that it has been “an absolute whirlwind.”
“We took over the space, we blinked and it was Thanksgiving.”
Fittingly, the Chins, along with chef/partner Michael Cooper, are delighted to welcome guests for Osteria Ester’s soft opening on Tuesday (Dec. 9).
It is the sixth concept for Good Salt, the second of two 2025 openings (Sparrow‘s nest grand-opened in September), and a complete departure from menus past with comforting takes on Italian-American classics. It’s a love letter from Cooper not only to Orlando, but to his grandmother, for whom the place is named.
One might think that means they’ll be tasting Ester’s beloved recipes, but they’d be wrong.
Pint-sized mushroom arancini was a fun treat for guests during Osteria Ester’s preview service. Regular service begins Dec. 9. (Amy Drew Thompson/Orlando Sentinel)
“No one in my family can cook, especially my grandmother!” a laughing Cooper said when the concept was announced. “But she was the glue of the family … a very special woman.”
Growing up in New Jersey, Cooper’s new menu pays homage to the neighborhood red-sauce joints so beloved in the region.
That means hearty offerings like the lasagna rotolo, big enough to share, pappardelle Bolognese and more.
Lasagna rotolo, $36, easily serves two. (Amy Drew Thompson/Orlando Sentinel)
Unlike its Mex-inspired neighbor, June, where the menu is virtually gluten-free, Osteria Ester, with its handmade breads and pastas, is as carb-friendly as it gets. The current menu includes four breads alone: focaccia, gnocco fritto, pizette and crostini.
It’s quite a departure from previous Good Salt offerings such as Seito Sushi Baldwin Park, The Monroe and Reyes Mezcaleria, “but that’s kind of what we’ve been doing,” says Jason Chin. “This one has been particularly fun, really personal to Chef Cooper, and very exciting.”
Osteria Ester from Good Salt Restaurant Group will replace Soco in Thornton Park
It’s also challenging, he notes, to build out something new in a third-generation space (“you don’t know what you’re inheriting a lot of the times”), but for one with this history, it’s been an honor. The space was first home to Hue, which held it for 10 years before Soco Thornton Park slid in for the next 10.
The restaurant partnership between Good Salt and Craig and Charlotte Ustler, its news release noted, ensures that this corner of Thornton Park remains a vibrant, community-driven destination.
And a gorgeous one. Sue Chin’s eye for design — not to mention artistry; a mural piece on one wall depicting the iconic tree silhouettes of the Sorrento peninsula — is both classic and playful, with warm tones and amber lighting.
Baked clams, $15, are among the antipasti at Osteria Ester in Orlando’s Thornton Park neighborhood. (Amy Drew Thompson/Orlando Sentinel)
Ever since the announcement in September, the Chins say, Thornton Park has welcomed them with open arms.
“It almost feels like we’ve already been here for years,” Jason Chin said. “There were nights when we couldn’t get any work done because people were popping in and we’d give them tours.”
Now, there are seats, tables and music. There is food and drink. There is reflection amid the murmur of guests and the clink of glasses.
Butterscotch budino at Osteria Ester, the sixth restaurant concept from Good Salt Restaurant group and a very personal undertaking for chef/partner Michael Cooper, who will continue overseeing operations at The Osprey in Baldwin Park, as well. (Amy Drew Thompson/Orlando Sentinel)
“Doing the buildout, you do a lot of dreaming and working,” Jason Chin said, looking around.
“This is what it all leads up to, and when you see it come alive, it’s the most rewarding thing. It’s just incredible. We’re so thrilled to be here.”
Want to reach out? Find me on Facebook, Twitter or Instagram @amydroo or on the OSFoodie Instagram account @orlando.foodie. Email: amthompson@orlandosentinel.com. For more fun, join the Let’s Eat, Orlando Facebook group.
Osteria Ester
Soft opening hours: 5-10 p.m., Tuesday through Saturday. Reservations: opentable.com/r/osteria-ester-orlando. Street parking nearby, paid parking available at Thornton Park Central Garage (building in the rear).
More info: 629 E. Central Blvd. in Orlando, 407-203-3577; osteriaester.com