When Orlando’s long-awaited H Mart finally opened last month, it had a zillion things I was ready to try, from the inhabitants of its aquarium-like seafood department to the genetically modified joys of its Pinkglow pineapples.
There are not one, but two whole aisles of instant and cup noodles. And two aisles of snacks, shelves crammed with crinkly bags bursting with umami-forward, butter-soy paldo bibimchips and strangely addictive Melon Kick corn puffs and a mind-boggling selection of flavors from chicken wing to cuttlefish to sesame-squid peanut.
And I haven’t even mentioned the food court yet.
I wanted to try everything at H Mart. But to its crushing crowds and hours-long waits, I said F, no.
H Mart is the largest Asian supermarket chain in America, and it’s family-owned. Founded in Woodside, Queens, New York, in 1982, the company has since opened more than 100 stores in North America, with several in the United Kingdom, as well.
The excitement over H Mart’s first Florida store (also its largest at 100,074 square feet) was anticipated, says front manager Joanne No, “but this has been way more than we expected.”
“We have a lot of stores, and they are always busy when they open, but now in the fourth week, we still have big crowds coming. Every weekend, we’ve been packed.”
H Mart Asian grocery store and food court in Orlando, busy midday on Monday. (Stephen M. Dowell/Orlando Sentinel)
It’s true.
My Sunday drive-by saw mayhem in the parking lot midday as crowds, heavy rains and aisles confoundingly cut off by Jersey barriers at one end had would-be shoppers schooling madly, if slowly, for spots.
We bailed immediately for Korean wings up the street, but I was admittedly gobsmacked by the umbrella-peppered lines, the police presence, the middle-aged woman getting soaked to the bone as she stuffed her trunk with live plants and frozen dumplings.
Claw games are among the arcade draws at Florida’s first H Mart, which opened last month in Orlando. (Stephen M. Dowell/Orlando Sentinel)
“The customers love the variety we have and are trying all of the other features, too,” says No, who’s been splitting time between her New Jersey home and the Orlando location as the store gets up and running. “We have the game room, the picture shop where people can wear costumes for their photos. We have great food here, too.”
One month in, I can finally vouch.
Lines were longest at Myung Ga on this midday Monday visit. The soon tofu soup was a popular offering. (Stephen M. Dowell/Orlando Sentinel)
I broke my H Mart cherry the following Monday, which was mercifully sunny. Sunday’s parking barriers were gone. As were the outside lines. But the food court was still packed. My lunch companion arrived first and nabbed us a table, holding down the fort while I surveyed the scene. The line at Myung Ga, which features Korean BBQ and tofu soup, was the longest. Always a good sign.
Family-owned in Weston since 2004, this is Myung Ga’s second location. I grabbed up an order of haemul pajeon ($14), a massive, mixed-seafood pancake with scallion. Enjoyably greasy. Eminently craveable. The soon tofu dishes come with a variety of protein options. I chose the oyster ($16) at Spice Level 4. It goes to 5 here, but untested, I didn’t want to blow out my taste buds. The spice was nice, and the cauldrons are literally boiling at the point of delivery. Be careful navigating your tray through the crowds.
Oyster soon tofu soup from Myung Ga. Spice level: 4. (Stephen M. Dowell/Orlando Sentinel)
That’s another thing. Dine-in orders feature actual platewear, no disposables. Guests are expected to return trays/dishes to the vendor from whence they came. Racks alongside each counter are provided.
This may be Florida’s first H Mart, but it’s not Jaws Topokki‘s Sunshine State debut. In fact, the Korean street food purveyor has locations in California, Georgia and New Jersey (Florida’s first is in Tampa’s Lotte Mart). The specialties here are Topokki (aka, tteokbokki) a wonderfully spicy, chewy stir-fried rice cake dish. Toppings include ramen, cheese and more.
The Friend Set from JAWS Topokki at H Mart Orlando. (Stephen M. Dowell/Orlando Sentinel)
Tempted by the sundae (Korean sausage) side, I went in for the Friend Set ($30.99). Seems pricy, I know, but this thing is easily shareable for four people. It comes with the basic Jaws Topokki soup, gorgeous and garish in gochujang red, with a mixed bag of tempura goodies (sweet potato, shrimp, squid, seaweed roll, dumpling).
Great heat and even better noodle pulls. H Mart’s food court is a playground for gourmands. (Stephen M. Dowell/Orlando Sentinel)
The lady at the next table was eyeballing my sundae, and so appreciative when I offered to share.
“It seems less ‘bloody’ than morcilla,” she said. I agree.
But what I loved the best were the toppoki leftovers, as the rice cake, fish cake and ramen seemed to absorb even more of the spice. I look forward to sampling their gimbap next time around.
Savory jajangmyeon from Paik’s Noodle at Orlando’s new H Mart. (Stephen M. Dowell/Orlando Sentinel)
Chili jajangmyeon at Paik’s Noodles ($13.95) was enjoyable, as well, particularly if you like a savory black bean flavor that leans into sweet.
Food court highlights of my second visit included Chidon’s hefty, fresh-fried and impossibly crispy tonkatsu, which neither my companion nor I could stop eating. Its crunch was audible, right down to the last piece. Platters here come with katsu sauce, a serving of rice, miso soup, cabbage and pickled goodies.
Haemul pajeon from H Mart’s Myung Ga. Its first location is in Weston, Florida. (Stephen M. Dowell/Orlando Sentinel)
Though the K-Dogs are clearly a hit if the loaded down trays I spied are any indication, I passed on the cheese pulls here for the one that’s been clogging my social feeds since H-Mart opened: the cheese coin at Da Bang.
This little operation sits outside the food court proper, amid coffee and egg sando vendors, a salon and more.
Monday lunch crowd at H Mart in Orlando.. (Stephen M. Dowell/Orlando Sentinel)
Along with many beverages (the grapefruit sparkle tea with passionfruit boba, 0% sweet, was delightful!) is the viral sensation that launched a thousand TikToks. And get this: It’s really tasty! Crisp, beautifully detailed crepe circles, lightly sweet, mask a cascade of mozzarella that’s warm enough for an impressive pull even after navigating your way back to the food court.
It’s also a great grab if you’re planning to shop, not sit.
A rainbow of precut produce at Orlando’s H Mart on West Colonial Drive. (Stephen M. Dowell/Orlando Sentinel)
Pro tip, from No: right now, the best time for that is at opening on weekdays, when crowds have been at their lowest. And although the food court doesn’t open until 11 (right about the time the rush starts), there are hot grab-and-go items inside the market.
“We have our own kitchen, too,” says No, “and the food comes out earlier than the food court items.”
Fresh seafood is popular at H Mart. The snapper isn’t live, but much of what’s offered is. (Stephen M. Dowell/Orlando Sentinel)
You’ll find them behind the customer service counter, where No’s favorite, the fresh-made rice cakes, are ready to eat. A good thing, since neither she nor the 200 employees that keep things moving here have a lot of time to sit down right now.
“It’s dying down a little,” she says (my Tuesday evening visit was evidence, with lots of room to move in both food court and market), “but when there are lines and it is hot outside, we’ve been bringing people water bottles, giving out coffee if they want it. We built two extra registers, for 12 total, to accommodate the crowds.”
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This is where I gently remind readers of the myriad Asian markets that already exist here, places like iFresh Market in the Milk District ( 2415 E. Colonial Drive in Orlando) and Mei’s Supermarket (10681 E. Colonial Drive in Orlando), the mini but mighty Eastside Asian Market (12950 E. Colonial Drive in Orlando) and the massive Lotte Plaza Market (3191 W. Colonial Drive in Orlando), less than five miles from H Mart.
Each has its own charms, its own local food vendors to support. Good ones. So, if you’re more apt to wait ’til the H-Mart novelty wears off, you’ll find all the milk tea Kit Kats and roasted cumin lamb skewer potato chips (not to mention reasonably priced fresh ginger) at any of the above.
Find me on Facebook, TikTok, Twitter or Instagram @amydroo or on the OSFoodie Instagram account @orlando.foodie. Email: amthompson@orlandosentinel.com, For more foodie fun, join the Let’s Eat, Orlando Facebook group.