A cult San Antonio food truck is on the move again, this time as a pop-up. Chef Paul Morales says he is reviving bespoke taco concept Tacos Cucuy for a three-week October residency at Ranch Motel, 3101 Broadway.
Morales launched Tacos Cucuy shortly after moving back to San Antonio from California. After a brief run that included winning Alamo City’s inaugural Taco Rumble, he decided to shift gears.
The mobile eatery combined all the influences from his culinary career. The freshness of Californian cooking met New Orleans French techniques. Inspired by the mentorship of Chef Steve McHugh, he incorporated pickled ingredients like a vibrant Jamaica slaw.
Tacos Cucuy uses unconventional ingredients like squash blossoms.Photo by Alyssa Garcia
Tortillas were always the foundation. Morales also owns Ancient Heirloom Grains, a tortilleria supplying non-GMO, preservative-free products to several local restaurants — including the blue corn tortillas used in Gimme Gimme’s infamous crispy dog. The chef started the company to bring back the rich, earthy flavors of nixtamalized corn to San Antonio.
“The kids nowadays don’t know what they are missing,” says Morales of commodity corn tortillas.
As with the original food truck, the Ranch Motel residency will sell scratch-made tacos using local produce, handmade salsas, and unconventional ingredients like squash blossoms. Guests can also expect responsibly raised meats and maybe even some charcuterie.
Colorful slaws and garnish make the tacos a visual treat.Photo by Alyssa Garcia
Morales has a long history with butchery. His grandfather worked at Hy Grade Meat Co. in the ‘50s, and he did a stint at Smoke Shack as a butcher. His newest culinary inspiration comes from fusing Latin-American flavors with traditional charcuterie techniques. Morales says he has been experimenting with terrines lately, using nopales, seafood, and a combo of chorizo and quail eggs.
The Tacos Cucuy will take place on October 21, 25, and 31 from 5 pm to sell out. But the busy chef is going full throttle in the next phase of his culinary career. Morales says he is also making daily breakfast tacos at the Aztec Corner Bar downtown.
And his skills will be on full display during a Día de los Muertos edition of the St. Paul Square Dinner Club at Cherrity Bar on November 6. The one-night-only menu includes tortillas ceremoniales, pozole, and pumpkin tres leches. Tickets are $100.19, including fees and taxes.