When that pastrami craving hits, there’s no better option than Lido Deli, the Long Beach gem owned since 1986 by Wally Goetz and his son, Russell.
Looking retro-cool since its remodel and expansion in 2022, the kosher deli is as reliable as ever. The large menu of sandwiches, soups and classic Jewish fare keeps it old-school. Looking around at the exposed brick walls and fancy blue booths, it’s difficult to imagine that this space has been a Jewish deli for more than 65 years. (It was known as Bernard’s for 30-plus years before it became Lido.)
Every meal still starts with a bucket of coleslaw and a plate of sour and half-sour pickles (gratis). Then you’ve got the matzo ball soup conundrum. Lido only serves bowls of matzo ball soup, not cups. But who wants to share a fluffy, beautiful matzo ball? So order your own and split the sandwiches instead. After all, they are towering.
The holy beef trinity here cannot be beat. Brisket and corned beef are made in-house; pastrami is brined and smoked off premises according to a family recipe that dates back 100 years: Wally’s grandfather was the founder of A to Z kosher Meats, New York’s premier supplier until it closed in 2018. Lido serves a traditional, luxuriantly fatty pastrami made from the beef navel (between the brisket and flank) as well as a leaner one made with chuck, and an even leaner one made with the “flat” of a brisket.
This is one of the few places on Long Island where you can always get a dark-meat turkey sandwich: every day the kitchen roasts a couple of whole turkeys and the thighs are put to good use between two slices of rye. Also, if your dish doesn’t come with fries, order them — you’ll not have better on Long Island.
Afterward, head over to the adjacent storefront to pick up to-go items from the deli counter. Kasha varnishkes (buckwheat with bow-tie pasta) are great to have on hand, as are a couple of knishes while you’re at it. Long Beach is lucky to have such a solid kosher deli, but this endearing haunt is also worth traveling for.
Notable dishes: The pastrami sandwich, of course. The turkey sandwich — heck, all the sandwiches. For something semi-novel, try the corned-beef-stuffed Israeli omelet, and don’t miss the fries.
Tip: Always ask for extra pickles, but don’t tell them we told you so.
Range of entrées: $27.95-$36.95, sandwiches: $17.95-$24.95
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Andi Berlin is from Arizona and does not know where she is going. But when she gets there, she’ll find something beautiful and delicious that the world needs to taste.