Chef-owner Tracy Miller opened Local in Deep Ellum in 2003.
Lisa Petty
Local opened in 2003 at the eastern edge of Deep Ellum on the ground floor of the former Boyd Hotel. In its heyday, nearly a century before the restaurant entered the picture, the hotel hosted musicians, artists and outlaws who would go on to shape the neighborhood’s legacy.
Today, the Boyd’s bronze historic landmark sign is stained with graffiti, and Deep Ellum has cycled into another of its challenging eras. A new start is on the horizon, though, and we hungered to experience again, as chef-owner Tracy Miller’s mission statement reads: “…that authentic restaurant you could always count on…a satisfying, genuine, and unique dining experience that encourages lingering.”
Miller chose the name “Local” in reference to this feeling, an ease of familiarity and welcoming ambiance. Of course, locally-sourced produce, meats, and cheeses are also utilized whenever possible. For her, it’s all connected. “At Local, there is an intention to every single thing,” she says.
That intention is apparent as soon as you step into the restaurant’s warm interior, bathed in lamplight and classic rock. Exposed brick walls, hardwood floors, and a tile mosaic are all preserved from the hotel. They’re complemented by original art and minimalist furnishings. As crowds, cars, and even a few flashing lights and sirens rushed by outside, our table felt like an oasis.
Looking over the menu, we savored a complimentary dish of warm, rosemary-flecked nut mix. Local’s edited offerings change regularly, representing Miller’s seasonal takes on the classics. Self-trained, the Texas-born chef immersed herself in the culinary scenes of New York City and the Napa Valley in the ‘90s as she envisioned what her own restaurant would one day become.
“I had the opportunity to go to the French Laundry a couple of times,” Miller says. “I met Thomas Keller, and I was just blown away by the presentation and the cleanliness.” She also cites Danny Meyer and Jean-Georges Vongerichten as early influences.
Upon returning to Dallas, she worked in the front of the house at Seventeen Seventeen restaurant when local legends George Brown and Kent Rathbun led the kitchen. Though today’s audience might not connect with these boldface names from previous generations, all they need to know is that they informed Miller’s way of “maintaining the details and not trying to go with the trends.”
But don’t conflate consistency with boredom. An amuse-bouche of roasted Roma tomato soup, for example, opened the palate with a shot of hot, sexy, salty, tomatoey goodness. Next up, a salad of sautéed Brussels sprouts, tender lettuces, and grilled bruschetta dressed in lemon vinaigrette, teased just the right hint of spring.
Entrees, including a Pinot-glazed wild salmon and grilled grass-fed tenderloin filet, also reflected skill and inspired composition. For example, the parsnip whip and wilted Texas kale, paired with the salmon, counterbalanced its rich, buttery flesh and complemented its sweetness. The steak was cooked to a perfect rosy medium with dark, crusty edges, then bathed in tawny port jus and served with house-made tater tots. What true Texan could resist?
Chef Miller stopped by our table near the end of the meal. She didn’t know we’d be writing about her; she just likes to check in with all her guests. We mumbled happy things while nibbling tiny shortbread cookies topped with cranberry compote — another little treat offered on the house. Ultimately, it’s these personal touches that make you feel seen at Local, not just served. After 23 years, Miller intends to keep it that way for a long time to come.
“You know, it’s been hard, as we’ve seen food trends change and other things change over the years,” she says. “It’s the best thing in the world to know it still feels the way it did before. That’s my goal.”